, where I regret not having our bikes.JORDANIA
April 2002 24/4-5/5
Partecipants: Ana Zandomeneghi, Axel Kaiser
Everybody told us not to go Jordania as the situation in the middle east is very dangerous. But I couldn't believe that troubles in Israel would affect Jordania which has been a peaceful country for so many years, and so we went.
At the airport in Amman, at 2 o'clock in the morning, we discover that our bikes and some luggage had been left behind in Frankfurt. We have to pay an exorbitant 12 dinars (about 15 Euro) to go to Madaba about 20 km away.
Madaba
We realize soon that we are among the very few tourists around the country,
we are the only guests in the Hotel and bargained a good price. As our bikes
will arrive only 2 days later we take it very easy. the first day we go down to
the dead sea, a steep 1000mt drop, where I regret not having our bikes.
The sea seems really dead as it lays wedged in this barren, sun burnt landscape. We take our obligatory float in the sea at some Bedouin tends who sell also water to shower afterwards, it's incredible how your float, I was not able to swim as I couldn't push my feet below the surface.
As we go back to Madaba I don't regret anymore that we came here with a taxi. We spend the afternoon strolling around the city tasting local specialties and smoking the 'Narghileh' , fruit scented tobacco with the smoke cooled by water. With a very dizzy head we go for dinner, Falafel, humus and Sharma.
Next day we call the same taxidriver, who is so happy that he invites us to
his home to have some tea, that's the first time we enjoy the hospitality of this
marvelous people. Later he bring us to the Ma'In springs
.
Several
thermal springs
and waterfalls in a narrow canyon 400 Mt above the dead sea. We try to reach the
dead sea trekking along the canyon. That's great fun, the water is about 30° C
and the landscape is great, palmtrees and idyllic waterfalls around every bent.
Only problem I had my SPD biking shoes, as the others were still in Frankfurt; I
was afraid to ruin my shoes in the hot water and went barefoot, the first 1 or
two hours it was OK but after 4 hours my feet hurt badly and I was happy when we
returned to our clothes.
As it was Friday (Muslim holiday)after lunch a lot of locals came to the springs as well to bath. The men seemed to enjoy very much the fun but the women, the few who dared to bath, did it fully dressed and veiled. They didn't seem to care but for us it was sad to see the women so restricted, and Jordania is one of the most open countries!
Saturday we were at 6 o'clock at the airport to take the bikes. They arrived
but the Saddle of Ana was bent by 180° even with Titan rails. After we made the
damage report we went back to Madaba with the taxi in search of a new saddle. We
were lucky to find one, as Jordania isn't exactly the motherland of bikers in
fact we met only 2-3 local bikes on the whole trip.
At last we were ready to
leave, our first goal was the majestic Wadi Mujib. A 900 meter deep canyon.
Descending was great on good tarred roads. The ascend seemed more a 'Girone' of
Dantes Inferno. Bad Gravel road, very steep (up to 24%)and a continuos going of
truck, as they are building a Dam at the bottom of the canyon. Two friendly guys
on a pickup stopped and gave us a lift to the next village, where we had lunch
(Humus, falafel, salad and Pita bread as usual only at half the price than in
Madaba). From here until Karak the landscape was pretty dull, fields, olive
trees and characterless villages.
I forgot to tell you that I didn't have a normal bike but I had bought, a month before, a recumbent. Yes, one of this strange bikes where you lay down and have the pedals in front of you. Obviously this created big fun everywhere we arrived, the people didn't know if to look at Ana with her tight biking shorts (rare sight in Jordania) or at me. I have to say that since I have this bike I enjoy riding much more and ride much more km than before. My particular model form Optima is suited also for all the offroad you can possibly encounter in a trip.
We arrived in Karak in the late afternoon, the way up to the town is very
steep but the view is wonderful,
once you are at the top. We got a 50% discount
in a very nice hotel next to the big Crusader castle that dominates Karak. A
series of this castles are placed on strategic points in the whole area. We had
a leisurely walk around the town and had dinner, guess what: Humus, Falafel and
some meat soup.
The next morning we visited the castle. it has a lot of subterranean rooms which are fun to explore and are very cool compared to the hot sun outside.
To Dana
Than
we left. We had a long day of up and downs, crossing a lot of wadis (at one we
took a lift on the usual handy pick up).
The landscape was changing we were
entering the desert . At the end of the day we were on a plateau at around 1500 Mt
which ended suddenly in deep canyons with impressing rock formations. Here
we left the Kings Highway ( the ancient road from Amman to Aquaba) to reach
Dana, a little village at the edge of the Dana Reserve.
Dana was only 2km away but 300 meters lower. The village is underrated on the guidebooks, as it is the nicest place we saw in Jordania. All the houses are build of big stones, the setting is beautiful, in the middle of the Dana Canyon surrounded by ancient olive trees. The lodging was basic but very friendly, I spent the afternoon wandering around the village, drinking tea with the locals, while Ana had some sleep. Recumbent bikes have the advantage that you travel very comfortably. Also dinner was nice, under the desert sky with some locals, as we were also here the only guests.
Petra
Next day we made our way to Petra, we took a shortcut on an unsealed road,
which took us to Little Petra,
another Canyon with
excavated monuments, but were
we could arrive with our bikes right in front of the monuments. Now the
landscape is strewn with big boulders of Sandstone. We arrive to Wadi Moussa (the
starting point to visit Petra) quite exhausted, mainly for the strong sun. For
20 Euro we get a nice Hotel with a pool, which felt great after the heat of the
day. We had a buffet dinner, they regretted having convinced us to take half
board.
We spent all the next day to visit Petra, which is not just the temple at the
end of the narrow gorge that you have seen in Indiana Jones and the last
Crusaders, but it's a whole valley full of wonderful temples caved out of the
soft sandstone over 2000 years ago. Also here very few tourists and a lot of
people trying to sell you useless souvenirs, but without the annoying insistence
found in other Arabic countries, more with friendly charm
.
The highlight for us
was the Monastir, a churchlike facade over 40 meters high, situated on the
highest mountain in the area, you reach it with a long climb up a small cut in
the rock. We walked over 8 hours around the site, up and down the mountains and
saw only part of the monuments. Petra until 10 years ago was still inhabited by
native people and still today some of them spend the tourist season in the caves.
Next morning we felt a little tired and took a lift for about 50km, unfortunately our time was limited and we had lost 2 days when our luggage didn't arrive.
Wadi Rum
Once again on the bikes we exited the hills and arrived in the desert.
Now we
were on our way to Wadi Rum. Probably one of the most beautiful desert areas in
the world, do you remember the film Lawrence d'arabia? from the vast sandy plain
raises rocktowers up to 800 meters high. The rocks are modeled into strange
shapes by water and wind. Pedaling trough this fantastic landscape was a dream
for a long time and we enjoyed every moment of it.
Here we decide to stop for a day or two to allow us to reach some more remote
areas.
We stored our bikes and luggage by the friendly owner of a restaurant and
headed out in the desert with our backpacks and camping gear. We slept in the
place known as 'the sand dunes' where red sand dunes are wedged between
impressive rock formations. Until late we lay on the warm sand gazing at the
stares, the only sound was the wind moving the sand. Early next morning, to
avoid the sun, we started the walk back, we took a long detour to see Lawrence's'
house. It's not a big deal in itself but it has a superb setting. Back in Wadi
Rum we decide to make it a long day and to reach Aquaba tonight. Over noon we
stay with a friendly family who invites us for lunch, in return I mount on the
bicycle of the eldest son one of Ana's bottle holder and bottle, he was radiant.
Aquaba
The last stretch of 50km was a nightmare of trucks rushing along the highway blasting their horns thinking that we would appreciate their way of saying hello. We arrived very late at Aquaba discovering that today was a national holiday and ALL the hotels were full after 2 hours searching and a broken chain of my bike, we found a Hotel which offered us to sleep in the basement for 25 Euro or in a room for 45. We took the room as we were quite exhausted. 3 hours trekking and then 80km by bike had taken their toll.
Next morning we biked to the Royal Diving Center, close to the Saudi border, about 20km from town. Here is supposedly one of the best snorkeling in Jordan. It's a kind of exclusive Club for westerners and rich Jordanians, but it was OK as Ana at last could wear a swimsuit without being raped. Snorkeling was fine but limited to a short stretch, but we enjoyed the relaxing atmosphere.
Tonight we change Hotel and feel even more cheated (it was cheaper but very, very poor for the money). Next morning we found a taxi driver who had to go to the airport in Amman to pick up a client. So he took us for only 25 Euro for 300km. The trip back was without hassle, we got even a 380 Euro refund from Lufthansa.